Living Aquarium

Feeding my fish (Sera O-Nip tablet) - I fully recommend

Krmení rybek tabletou Sera O-Nip. Doporučuju :).

American fish, african music, asian plants…

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I have a 75 gallon, that i purchased on craigslist. All new filter media, but i cleaned his gravel and put his driftwood back in the tank. I am hoping this may help with the cycling. the tank have been running for 6 days now. Can i put live plants in yet? Or should i wait until the cycle is complete? What are some good plants for a tropical community tank. Probably going to try a few angels, few bala, and i already have 6 zebra danios in there?

You can start planting the tank as soon as you’ve set it up, and nitrogenous waste such as ammonia is used up by plants.

Also sorry if this is off topic, but don’t purchase Bala sharks (also known as Silver sharks), these fish can easily top 35cm/14″ and are very active fish.

Maintains pH of aquarium water between 6.8-7.2. Holds correct pH for several weeks. Prevents stress on fish from sudden pH changes. Promotes favorable conditions for tropical fish and live plants. Helps lower harmful ammonia levels. Maintains neutral pH in community tanks (between 6.8 - 7.2) and holds it for several weeks. Also prevents stress in fish from sudden pH changes, promotes favorable conditions for tropical fish and live plants, and helps lower harmful ammonia levels. The fizz lets you know it’s working! Details: If used in very hard water, cloudiness may occur. The ingredients in the product react with the minerals. Can be cleared up with regular water changes. Repeat as necessary, taking care not to change the pH level more than .5 every 24 hours. Will maintain the proper pH level for several weeks depending on system load and water changes. Mfg. Item No. Size TB640 8 tabs Treatment Contents Treats 1 tab/10 U.S. gal. (40 L) 80 U.S. gal. (320 L)

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30 gallon tank with 3 assorted jelly bean parrot fish, 3 albino tiger barbs, 5 blue neon tetras, 3 tiger barbs, and an apple snail mixture of live and fake plants

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http://s407.photobucket.com/albums/pp156/Johno-/?action=view&current=Johnsfishtank-1.jpg

thanks
its a tropical aquarium…

I am presuming, then, that the “corals” are fake.
If they aren’t, your tank will not be healthy for freshwater fish.

BTW, “tropical” is in reference to temperature and region of the world. It does not mean “freshwater”. Most saltwater fish in aquaria are also tropical.

There are lots of nice freshwater plants that look good, and are healthy for an aquarium. They will not look “correct” to a person who knows corals, etc, but they should look fine in general. Appearance is a subjective thing. If you want to keep with the “saltwater” theme for your look, you’ll have to go with fake decorations.
That said, live plants are very beneficial, and help to keep algae at bay, and keep your nitrates down.

Here’s some links for freshwater plants-
Easy planted tank
http://www.petfish.net/eplant.htm

Plant info by picture-
http://www.tropica.com/plant_print.asp

Here’s a form about planted tanks-
http://www.plantedtank.net/

PS- Just for general info purposes: Saltwater plants (called macroalgae) CAN go in saltwater tanks, it is just more popular to do corals instead. Macroalgaes generally take over and make keeping corals difficult, you you generally have to have one or the other.

A little vid showing my tank.
The tank consists of:

1 Pearle Gourami
2 sunset Gourami’s
3 Bolivian Ram’s
1 Golden Ram
3 Congo Tetra’s
3 Red eye Tetra’s
3 Red Harlequin’s
4 Long fin Zebra Danio’s
2 Rummy nose Tetra’s
4 Panda dwarf Cory’s
1 Black Diamond/Micro Cory
1 San Juan Cory
1 Siamese Algae Eater
3 Otocinclus Algae Eaters
8-10 Amano Shrimp (hard to keep track of)
1 Wood Shrimp
4 Olive Nerite Snails

Feed live bloodworm’s 3x a week. Supplemented by, Frozen Brine infused with spirulina, Frozen Mysis shrimp, Frozen Blood worms and assorted flake food.

Details of Aquarium:
20 gallon glass tank
Custom Black matte wood stand and canopy
Filtered by 1 Eheim Ecco 2 (bio and mech only)
Heated by 75 watt Ebo-Jager
Lighted by 1 VHO CFL 11,000k 55watt bulb, 1 std CFL 26 watt 6,500k/Actinic bulb and a 1 watt blue Led moonlight.
Automatic CO2 control by an American marine controller feed by a 10lb bottle and introduced into the tank via a Red Sea infusion reactor.
Maintained at a pH of 6.7-6.9
Water for the tank is from a 5 stg R.O./D.I. filter.
Only SeaChem products used for water conditioning.
Hardness maintained from 2-4 degrees.

Water changes every week (10%)
Filter maintenance once a month.

thanks for any comments.

All this equipment is from previous large tanks I have had, dont have the room so thought I would do a really trick small tank.

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Reef Safe Rally is a copper free water treatment. Use for any tropical or marine aquarium with harmful bacteria flukes or oodinia marine velvet Safe for plants and invertebrates. Remove all carbon turn off protein skimmer and U.V. sterilizer. ree

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I have 3 x Electric Yellows, 3 x Silver Sharks(varying sizes), 1 x Large Green Severum and 1 x Sailfin Pleco.
Everyone lives in harmony, have had tank set up for over 2 years. They have heater and cannister filter. No living plants. Not sure about automatic feeder or blocks ( blocking filter or overfeeding)
Will they survive if I can get someone in to feed them at least once a week? Will my pleco be okay with that or should I have a feeding block in the tank and have remains removed
each week? I appreciate your constructive answers?
Thank you for your ideas.Unfortunately I can not have anyone come in more than once a week. I will invest in an automatic feeder to help them for the week. Can anyone recommend a particular one? Thanks
Hello I have been doing water changes on a monthly basis now and my ph levels etc are all good. I will measure out how much each week and have it labelled. The autofeeder electric option will be what I will need and will have to show my minder how much each week she will need to put in it. I will start feeding my fish every 2nd day so they can get used to the 24 hour option on the autofeeder. Again Thank you for all your suggestions. I am going in October but just wanted to be organised.

Hi there

If you have a light - get a timer from the hardware.

Automatic feeders are the only way to go for cichlids, especially for your time frame.

I use Eheim rotating feeders. (But shop around) Get a large barrel one, and tape it on top of the tank (On a glass cover pane - that way the barrel can rotate and your food can fall in without your fish knocking it over (It happened to me with a big male frontosa!) These barrels should also be able to release sinking pellets your sailfin gibbiceps can eat.

There should be a slot on the side which you use to regulate the amount of food the barrel releases. If its possible, about a month before you go, I'd begin using it, but slowly reducing the amount that your feeding them, to about two thirds or one half. Less food means less waste -seeing as no one will be able to do a water change, and your fish will be fine receiving less for a month. (When your carer comes in - get them to check all of your fish are present and healthy, check the thermometer for temp, refill the feeder, and feed them a little bit extra as well - especially make sure that your gibbiceps is getting his food and your other fish aren't stealing it all.)

Another important thing is your waste levels. Generally you should be doing a water change (about one third of the water) fortnightly, even with a canister filter, otherwise your nitrate may peak and you can have issues in your tank. Before you go, test your water at a local aquarium shop, and Id recommend doing several water changes before you leave just to make sure you wont have any issues.

In any case, you should be fine. Cichlids are hardy and tolerant fish, and I had no problems at all when I did this!

Best of Luck
Meg

Well, I try to bring the outdoors underwater life indoors in my fishtank, I try to capture the environment just like it is in reallife.

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